Starting From Scratch

How to Establish a New Lawn from Seed...In 10 Simple Steps!

One might think that establishing a new lawn is done by simply placing seeds in the ground and watching them grow into beautiful green turf. If that were the case, then everyone would have a showpiece lawn. Here are 10 easy steps that will transform that soil into a lush, lavish lawn.

Bear in mind that establishing a yard from seed is a holistic process - sort of like brewing a cup of coffee. If you take these steps out of order (or omit one), your chances of success will dwindle.

The following steps are for establishing a new lawn from scratch. If your lawn is already established and you just need to fill in thin or bare spots, skip the first few steps (with the possible exception of step #1).

1. Soil test -  Have your yard's soil tested at least a month prior to seeding. The test results will determine your fertilizer, lime and soil amendment needs for steps 4,5 and 6. The Cooperative Extension Service in your state will conduct a soil test for a nominal fee.
2. Persistent weed control - Apply a non-selective herbicide (glyphosate or Scott's Roundup^®) to the yard about two weeks before you start seeding. This herbicide will eliminate weeds, like quackgrass, that can't be controlled by regular selective herbicides. You might need two applications, spaced 10 days apart, to control weeds deeply embedded in the soil.
3. Rough grading - Get out the mini tractor and move soil around to your liking if you need to do some leveling, landscaping, etc. Remove any stones you find. Try not to work when the soil is too wet or dry as this will harm the soil structure. A good rule of thumb is to squeeze a fistful of soil. If water comes out, then the soil is too wet to work.
4. Lime - Save time by combining steps 4,5 and 6. The outcome of your soil test will determine which of these steps is needed. Lime is used to raise the soil's acidity level. You will need to add about 100 pounds per 1,000 square feet if the soil's pH is 5.5 or lower. Spread the lime and disk it in.
5. Basic fertilizer - If the soil test shows a phosphorous or potassium deficiency, add fertilizer that is high in one or both of these ingredients. Follow the rate recommendations from your soil test.
6. Soil amendments - Depending on what the soil test reveals, you may need to amend your soil with peat, sand, another topsoil, etc. If adding a different soil type or sand, make sure that your final mixture won't be some form of concrete. It will be well worth the effort to consult an expert.
7. Finish grade - Prepare a good seedbed by removing any stones and old grass clumps. Add soil in low spots to ensure constant surface drainage (settle the surface by watering, if possible).
8. Starter fertilizer - Place a starter fertilizer down at the rate recommended on the label. A starter fertilizer typically has a higher phosphorous rate and more soluble nitrogen than fertilizers designed for mature lawns.
9. Seed - A seeding rate of 10 to 15 seeds per square inch will give the yard the best chance to grow nice healthy plants. It may not look like enough, but it is plenty. Make sure the seed has good soil contact so it can easily absorb water to start the germination process. You can accomplish this with a dry roller for big yards or the flat back edge of a rake for smaller areas.
10. Mulch - Applying mulch to the newly seeded area will help ensure germination, control erosion and reduce water use. Many products can be used as mulch. Straw makes the most effective mulching material, but be sure it doesn't contain weeds that could take root with the new grass. Do not use peat as mulch - it competes with soil and seed for water and nutrients.

Here are some other considerations for establishing a new lawn:

Timing: When is the best time to seed? It's kind of like fishing. Fishing is always good - the catching is a different story. There are definitely better windows of time than others for seeding grass. For cool-season grasses, the best times are spring and fall; for warm-season grasses, seed in the summer. Your chances for success are better the earlier you are in the window.

Watering: Once the seeds take in water, the irreversible process of germination begins, so it's very important to continue watering once you've started. After the grass germinates (time to germination for grass species range from three to 21 days), increase the amount of water and the time between watering intervals.

Fertilizing: New grass will likely use up the starter fertilizer within the first month. To keep the grass growing, apply another half pound to a pound per 1,000 square feet after 30 days and then again at 50 to 60 days. Make sure the yard is dry before applying fertilizer to prevent footprints from appearing in the soil, which will create an uneven surface

Weed control: Using a herbicide called siduron at step 8 will prevent crabgrass in the spring. You can find this product and fertilizer in the same bag. Do not use any other herbicides on newly seeded areas as these products will keep both the grass and crabgrass from germinating. Wait until after the second or third mowing, and then use a herbicide such as MSMA, which is found on the label of several weed control products.

Once grass has sprouted, one of the best products to use is quinclorac (Drive) because it is the only product that controls crabgrass without harming the new grass. However, it is only available through lawn care professionals.

Mowing: Mow as soon as you can because it encourages the grass to spread. Follow the one-third rule; remove just one-third of the grass plant when mowing. For best results, set your mower at three inches for cool season grasses and two inches for warm season grasses.