Top 5 Yard Care Questions for 2010

Common issues and their solutions

What's on your mind this yard care season? We've reviewed landscaping questions from homeowners like you, and these five rose to the top of the pile. Find the answers to the fastest growing questions here. Want more? Read our full list of FAQs.

1. What's the best way to start a new lawn: seed or sod?

Both seed and sod are viable options for starting a new lawn or renovating a worn lawn - and each has its pluses and minuses. But when choosing what's best for you, it really boils down to this: Would you rather save time...or money?

Sod gives you an instantly green lawn, but since you're purchasing grass that's already established, you'll pay a lot more than you would for seed. However, aside from regular watering, sod requires less care and keeping - and you can enjoy your new grass lawn almost immediately. Also, with the exception of winter, sod can be planted any time. With seed, you're limited to late spring or early fall to ensure grass will take root.

The less expensive option, grass seed, will take several weeks before you experience the satisfaction of a full, lush lawn. But if your budget is tight, you have a shady yard (sod doesn't do as well in shade) or are blessed with patience, seed might be the right option for you. Keep in mind, grass seed will require more frequent watering than sod - and you'll have to eliminate foot traffic on the seeded area until the grass is well established.

Whatever method you choose, make sure to buy high-quality material to limit weed growth and ensure optimal health.

For more about seeding, watch this how-to video.
For more about sodding, watch this how-to video.

2. When should I dethatch my lawn?

Thatch, or the spongy, brown lower layer of dead grass and other organic material, is actually good for your lawn in the right dose. If you limit its thickness to no more than a half inch, your grass can benefit from extra nutrients created as it decomposes, and from a layer of insulation from heat waves and drought. But if it gets too thick, thatch can choke out grass plants, and prevent air, water and nutrients from reaching the soil. To help determine how much thatch buildup exists in your lawn, place a screwdriver in the thatch until it reaches the soil, mark how high the thatch reaches, and then measure with a ruler. If it's higher than half an inch, it's probably time to dethatch. It's also best to dethatch when grass can best recover: during growing season (either late spring for warm season grasses or early fall for cool season grasses), and not when it's too hot or watering is limited.

3. How do I get rid of grubs?

Grubs, or the larvae from Japanese beetles that feed on grass roots, can really do a number on your lawn, leaving scattered and irregular brown spots. If you notice spots like these, and can pull up the areas from the soil like a carpet, you've got yourself some grubs. To get rid of them, apply insecticides like Sevin™ and Dylox™ in the spring and early fall, since this is primary feeding time for grubs. Another insecticide, Merit™, will prevent grubs from doing any damage when they hatch in late summer. However, Merit must be applied in July before the eggs hatch; it has little to no effect on mature grubs. Continue to apply Merit each July. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions when using pesticides.

For more information, review Say Good-Bye to Grubs.

4. How do I stop Creeping Charlie invasions?

If you want to avoid using herbicides, prevent Creeping Charlie (or ground ivy and wild violets) from taking over your landscape by maintaining a dense, healthy lawn with proper lawn maintenance, and seeding any bare spots. If you're already victim to these hard-to-manage perennial weeds, apply herbicide during the spring when they're flowering. The second best time to apply an herbicide is in the fall. Mid-summer applications are not effective on these weeds.

Two herbicides effective for controlling ground ivy and violets are Quinclorac and Ortho Weed-B-Gon™ with the purple label for chickweed, clover and oxalis, which can be purchased at local lawn and garden stores. Any other product containing triclopyr will also work. Be sure to follow all manufacturer instructions when applying herbicides.

5. How do I keep moles off my property?

Have you spotted these unwanted visitors in your yard: creatures about six inches long with dark, velvety fur, sharp teeth and large front claws? Guess the moles have come for a spell to feed on grubs, worms and other insects in your lawn - and creating tunnels under your lawn. The best way to control moles is by trapping. To pinpoint the area to set your trap, push down tunnels in the yard and watch for moles to repair them. If the tunnel reappears, it is a good place to trap. Place traps where moles must move soil out of the tunnel. Once captured, moles can be released in woody or weedy areas away from the house.

Eliminating a mole's food supply might seem to be a viable deterrent, but is an impractical approach because they feed on several types of insects. If one type of insect is eliminated, moles may leave for a short period of time but will likely return looking for a new food source.

Click here to learn more about moles and other critters.