Pruning Part 2: When to Prune and How to Do it
In our last issue, we reviewed several types of pruning tools you should have on hand to handle all kinds of pruning jobs around your yard. In this issue, we will look at how and when to prune.
Reasons to prune
Pruning is done to improve the appearance and health of your bushes and trees, and sometimes the safety of your home (removing tree branches that overhang your roof, for example). Prune to remove dead or diseased branches; tree branches that are too crowded or touching one another; and "sucker branches" that grow from the ground alongside the tree's trunk or even sprout up from the side of the trunk itself. Bush pruning also promotes stronger growth and can improve blooming.
Pruning bushes
When you prune your bushes depends on whether or not they are a flowering variety. If you have a bush that blooms in spring or early summer - such as a lilac or forsythia - prune them right after they have bloomed. If you wait until late summer or fall, you will remove buds that are already set to bloom the following spring (even though you cannot see them) and you will have a bush with fewer blooms or none at all next year.
Shrubs that bloom in mid- to late summer or early fall - such as butterfly bush, many spireas and even roses - should be pruned in late fall or very early spring while they are dormant.
Bushes used as hedges or borders that are not maintained for their blooms can be trimmed in summer or fall.
Pruning trees
You will want to prune low, overhanging branches above your roof or driveway to prevent possible damage from falling limbs. You also should remove dead tree limbs and thin out branches that are crowding one another. For many tree pruning jobs - especially those that require climbing or using a chain saw - it's best to hire experts rather than risk injury. A pole trimmer can be used to thin out small branches easily while your feet are safely on the ground.
The type of tree determines the best time to prune. Generally, prune in late fall to winter, when you can easily see the shape of the branches and the trees are dormant. Some trees, such as maples and birches, tend to release sap excessively if pruned in winter. Trim these trees in summer.
Shaping young trees
You can help a young tree establish an attractive and healthy crown with selective pruning. Trim out crowded branches, if necessary, while creating a natural shape to the tree. Some trees will grow with two "leaders" or main branches - trim away one to ensure a balanced look as the tree matures. Pruning young trees will not hurt them - just be sure you prune no more than one-fourth of the branches in any year.
Where to make the pruning cut
Where you make your pruning cut will affect the health and appearance of your trees and bushes. Follow these simple rules:
- Pruning cuts should be made on an angle with a sharp tool appropriate to the size of branch you are cutting.
- For bushes, cut on an angle just above a bud. Be aware that the direction the bud is pointing is the direction of new growth. Understanding this will help you achieve the growth pattern you are looking for. These cuts are best made with a hand pruner. If you are thinning out a bush, use loppers to cut the branch where it grows from soil.
- For trees, prune on an angle at the "collar" where the branch meets the trunk or next largest branch. The collar is the ridge of bark where the branch meets its larger counterpart. Don't use tree "wound treatments" - they aren't necessary or helpful. For a tree pruning animated demonstration, visit: www.arborday.org.
To find the right tools for Pruning read Pruning Part 1: The Tools You Need
